June 28th - Market Drayton - Knutsford

Had a 7am breakfast and on the road by 7.50am. Almost immediatally got lost but no one to ask as everybody still in bed! Much easier cycling as relatively flat - however this means that ones bottom becomes number quicker as when it is hilly one can free-wheel down the hill and relieve the pressure on ones posterior!
Funny world.
Had coffee in Middlewich - two young builders on roof opposite immediately engaged us in conversation about our tandem. They were keen mountain bikers; there is a kind of camaraderie when one meets other cyclists. Quality of coffee and cake excellect. We have been amazed at the quality of small cafes in the town where we have stopped. Had to do some cycling on 'A' roads- people seem to misjudge the length of the tandem and cut in too soon. About 20 miles from Knutsford - we saw it signposted - a great cheer from us both, as looking forward to seeing Clare and family.
Arrived 12.45pm and have been resting, eating, drinking and sleeping. A great place for a bit of TLC.

June 27th Ludlow - Market Drayton

Good Breakfast!
Dry day - started off cycling through very quiet Shropshire roads; distinctive architecture and unspoilt. Very hilly. Directions were good today and only got lost once! Had a coffee at a very pretty Much Wenlock and then onto Little wenlock' skirted around Telford and then through the Wrekin gap. When we stopped to check directions a walker gave us a donation of £2. As we dropped down from the Wrekin we saw the Shrewsbury Plain stretching out in front of us- a glorious sight after so many hills. At Water Upton a shopkeeper rushed out as we cycled towards his shop and gave us each a bottle of cold water and said' its people like you that make a difference'! He then ran back into his shop! One really does see human nature at its best on trips like this. Stopped at The Hermitage Guest House ,Market Drayton. The landlady was very odd! She had the central heating on - the day was hot- we asked her to turn off the radiator in our room. The next day as we left she said how lucky we were to be in the fresh air whilst she was at home -' sometimes its like a sauna in here'!
I wondered why I asked myself? She insisted on us paying in advance for our accomodation- did we look that dodgy?
However the room was fine and breakfast (yes full English) was excellent.Did 54 miles today.

June 26th Ross - on- Wye to Ludlow

Free coffee from landlady of Moon Inn at Mordiford as she took pity on us as we arrived totally drenched having cycled through heavy rain. Donation from couple in the pub! Ross B& B was super ( 4 star) - they were previously antique dealers and it showed throughout the house.
Still having trouble with the gears - kept slipping, kept having to walk up hills when gears failed to get into lower gear. Then the heavens opened and the rain came down. Our wet weather gear was effective but felt that cycling cape was unsafe. Went down so many very steep hills and used drag brake to avoid us slipping over as roads quite greasy after so many dry days.
Cycled through Leominster and then had a late lunch. Stopped for a very short pee stop at Hampton Court Palace.
Shortly after Ross we cycled alongside the river Wye- a single track road - virtually no traffic- an idyllic scene.
When we got to Leominster found a cycle shop- after 5 minutes he had sorted the gears and absolutely refused to take any payment - we said it was equivalent of a donation.
Finally - rather damp got to Ludlow in Shropshire ( Ross is Herefordshire) - to Cecil Guest House - 3 star going on 1 star - just about acceptable. (Tourist Board ought to reveiw star awards as last night was 4 star but so much better than tonights 3 star)
Dreary very small room; shower head covered in mildew and the reception smelt of damp.
However the rather obsequious owner ,who told us the same story several times of his car trip to the north of Scotland and about the aged cyclist who had to be rescued by his daughter after abandoning his End to End trip , did dry our clothes for us which were very damp. Did 52 miles today.

June 25th Yate - Ross- on- Wye

Did not get lost so often today but directions still crap! Had a glorious cycle over Severn Bridge - met another cyclist half way over who stopped for a chat. Bypassed Chepstow and then made for Tintern and had a coffee in a hotel overlooking Tintern Abbey. Fantastic scanery as we dropped down to the Wye River but then we had a climb out again via St Briavels - the hill was a monster; we started walking halfway up- met the postman and a dust cart ( that had to back up to let us pass) who laughed at us trying to get up this hill.
Cycled through Forest of Dean and along the valley to Ross - on - Wye. Stopped at a lovely B& B - very posh with large rooms but in a rather poor part of town where so many businessess have closed down. We had to get to this particulaler B& B by 6pm as our hosts are both in a choir that was performing in the local theatre tonight.
Experienced how some people live - went to local launderet to wash our clothes - it was unmanned - first we had to get soap powder (machine was broken) so I tramped off to nearby Morrisons; when I returned we then had 45 mins wait until machine cycle finished. Then the waiting for the clothes to dry in the driers which said it took 50 pences but it did not so I tramped off to Morrisons again to get 20 pences.
Had a delicious meal that evening at a Nepalese Restaurant - had a chat with the owner who said he was struggling although restaurant had 10 people in when we were there. (similar to Chinese restaurant in Bridgewater where owner from mainland China where Olympic sailing took place ; he also said he was finding it difficult (52 miles)

June 24th bridgewater - Yate

First 7 miles were flat but then came the Polden Hills. We struggled to the top; a car was stationery - as we got to it a lady driver jumped out and gave us £5 for BCC ! We then cycled across the Somerset Levels - rather Fen -like but hedged fields with numerous dairy herds with drainage ditches. Got to Cheddar and met a couple who gave us £5 donation. We drove through Chedder - rather tatty and touristy and then we were in the Gorge itself. We managed to cycle all the way up - at one point definitely mind over matter as our calves ,in particular , were burning. It was a great cycling day although quite hot, particularly this afternoon. We are not drinking enough water - urine very yellow! and this morning I had a headache which immedialty disappeared when I drank water and had something to eat. Whilst we had stopped for some water a cyclist,who had cycled past us, came back and wished us all the best. He had no money with him but wanted us to know his mother had died of breast cancer and thanked us for riding in support of breast cancer research.. Had glorious 5 miles ride along the Bristol - Bath Railway cycle way - part of the route runs alongside an old functioning railway. It was very well used with cyclist and walkers and very well kept .We got lost several times again today so we ended up doing 64 miles and not 50 miles as our cycle route suggested - the route directions are pretty poor. We had decided not to get our gears sorted out by St Johns Cycles as we were nervous that they could be made worse; perhaps we will sort them out before our long trip next year.
Mid afternoon someone from The Railway Arms, Yate telephoned us to say our bedroom had been flooded! However he had fixed us up to stay at The Bell, Chipping Sodbury - another 1 1/2 miles! However the hotel, really a pub, seems just fine. Several times on our trip the drag brake has proved invaluable - once to stop us colliding with a car coming up a very steep hill; other times just slowing down eg. dropping down from the Mendip Hills to the Chew Valley Lake.
Room was not ensuite ; only twin beds; road was noisy and breakfast was greasy. However last nights meal was ok. May have paid twice - so will investigate! Yesterday as we cycled along a cyclist coming from opposite direction yelled' are you going all the way'? (64 miles)

June 23rd Gt Torrington - Bridgewater

Just got to South Molton - 16 miles - the hardest cycling yet - 2 hills we had to walk up as far too steep - tough just pushing the bike up the hill. Its a curious feature of cycling that as one wizzes down a long hill one cannot help speculating that the price one will pay will be a long hill up.

All End to End cyclists say that the first few days cycling through Cornwall and Devon are the most difficult - and we were not disappointed! Beautiful scenery but so many steep or long hills- sometimes both; the last were the Quantock Hills just before we got to Bridgwater. During the day we had we deveated from the CTC route as it was too hilly with narrow high hedged roads - however the road we took instead was quiet and pleasant. For much of the ride we were on a ridge overlooking hills on both sides. Had lunch at Bampton - in a rather snooty cafe and we rather let the place down! Still having trouble with the gears that keep slipping so first thing we did when we got to Bridgwater was to go to St Johns Cycles, where we bought the tandem 10 years ago and where Jeff took it in February of this year for them to sort out amongst other things the gears, - where an infuriating mechanic questioned ua about the tandem that his firm had built! He rather condescendingly agreed to have a mechanic look at the bike in the morning. Great Band B with large room and joy of joys for Linda - a bath. As we cycled she was fantasising about having a bath - she had a good soaking. Bridgewater is rather dreary, seedy town. Had a good buffet meal at nearby chinese - all you can eat for £8. We ate a lot ( well Jeff did) (7o miles )

June 22nd Boscastle - Gt Torrington

Boscastle is at sea level so in the morning we had to push the bike up a very long hill as it was impossible for Linda to balance on the broken saddle whilst going up a steep hill. Eventually after several stops to massage numb bum and other nether regions we got to Bude. Eventually found a bike shop - the owner was very genial; however all the saddle stems were too big! He then telephoned a mate at a local enginerining workshop to see if he could grind down a saddle post to fit! We wandered into Bude - a curious quiet pretty town - lots of ' alternative lifestyle people'; anxiously waited for 2 hours and then returned to bike shop. He had done it! Charge was £ 50 but he said it was only £ 30 and £ 20 to cancer campaign - what a gem!
It was now 2.30pm - we are full of a very unappetising pasty ( not home made) and 26 miles to go. Eventually we made it at 6pm to Gt Torrington after some horrendous hills but stunning countryside. We were both seriously knackered. Found Eastmond Guest House easily and were given a great welcome by husband and wife. She immedialtly volunteered to wash all our clothes! Probably we looked a right sight - hot, ( as weather was very hot), sweaty, sticky and ( smelly!? - surely not). Lovely B& B and they obviously take great pride in it - centre of Torrington- pretty town but the a scene of tragedy in 1942 when 5 boys evacuated from various cities ( 3 from London) died in a fire at the 'consumption' house. Now in Black Horse having our dinner- home made fish cakes and vegetable paella - first class followed by excellent cheese well looked after. Whilst in pub 2 couples from Halstead, Essex gave us £40 for Breast Cancer - unbelievable! We are becoming experts at pub meals! B& B owners Rudi and Lona gave us £5 for our charity.The photo is of the clock tower opposite the Balck Horse Inn ( 48 miles today)

June 21st truro - Boscastle

Woke up at 5.30am! So far most difficult part of the trip is how to manage ones non - cycling times.Jeff left his underpants at the B&B - hanging out to dry from the window! This made a change from yesterday when he left the book he was reading in the loo. Very trying day. It was very hilly and on at least 3 occasions we got lost . the directions in the CTC guide are crap!!! as I pride myself on being a good - no great navigator; (after all I am a man)! Linda snorted as I wrote this and suggested, unkindly I thought, that if I listened to her perhaps we would have got lost less often.However the day was trying because Linda's saddle broke. Earlier the bike had fallen over and we think the damage occured at that time; however it was probabaly not helped by Jeff yanking at it after Linda complanied it was sloping the wrong way - causing untold damage to her arse. I quickly discovered that I did not have the right allen key for the saddle - why - I cannot say. We stopped at a pub and the landlord very kindly lent us his allen key set: later an elderly gent did the same- however it was well and truly buggered- the old gent gave us strong sticky tape and Linda attempted to tape her saddle to the frame - there was optimisitic as we still had 25 miles hilly to go. Within minutes going up a hill the saddle went one way and Linda the other. It was now mid afternoon and hot. I suggested we walk the 25 miles - this would have taken 8 hours. Linda poo poohed this and we carried on with her clinging using her strong sensual thighs to keep her grip on the saddle! As we went up hill she kept her grip on the saddle whilst raising her bottom from the seat - this was a sight to behold. We had to keep stopping as Linda was rapidly screwing up her back and bruising her nether regions. However showing her usual gutsy self we kept going and eventually arrived in Boscastle.
Beautiful countryside - rolling hills - we often could see the sea; glimpsed Newquay - saw several windsurfers. Often narrow roads with high hedges.
Dilemma tomorrow. If Linda's bottom is too sore Jeff will take a taxi to Bude to get a new saddle.
Boscastle is a pretty fishing village - the scene of a devastating flood in August 2004 - 100 properties flooded, 3 buildings swept away, scores of people rescued from roofs. No one drowned.
Village has been beautifully restored and infastructure changed eg. river widenened to try and prevent recurrence of flooding. (Good B& B ; did 44 miles today).

June 20th - Land End to Truro

The first of our Full English Breakfasts and what a great start to the day plus our hosts gave us a donation for our charity! The day was overcast with occasional sun. We cycled through glorious countryside following a route suggested by the CTC ( cyclists touring club ) which involves cycling on mainly B and C roads which makes the journey 200 miles longer and is more hilly but much safer and more enjoyable. We had been warned that the first few days through Cornwall and Devon were the most difficult of the entire trip because of the steep hills so we had decided to cycle shorter distances for this part of the journey. We were therefore not surprised by the steep hills and managed them easily enough. Cycled past St Michaels Mount - a beautiful scene with the sun low over the beach and a solitary figure of a man digging up lug worms. We stopped off at a pub called the Royal Oak and immediately were given a donation for our charity. Already we have found people so friendly and interested in our trip. Cornwall very rural and unspoilt. Got lost over last few miles and had to cycle on an A road. Ghastly and must avoid if we possibly can. Made it to Truro by 2.30 pm and 40 miles on the clock. We stayed the night at the Donnington Guest House where we met 2 lads doing the End to End on their mountain bikes carrying their luggage in rucksacs which seemed like hard work and very uncomfortable. Rested up for a couple of hours then had a wander round Truro - a pretty town and enjoyed the rather modern cathedral. As we looked at the Truro Town Map a man came up to us to help us and told us his sister-in-law had walked the End to End twice! Now dead through too much drink! We had a fascinating walk along the river marred by an enormous Tesco situated along the river bank. How planners had allowed this to happen is incredible. Had a Chinese and staggered back to the BandB.

The start - June 19th

Managed to get to Exeter to stay with friends Brendan and Jennie, with whom we had left the tandem, for a couple of days before we took the train to Penzance. After worrying that there would not be enough space for the tandem it was the sole occupant of the goods van. Glorious journey to Penzance with great views of the sea. Set off from Penzance and 10 miles later up some steep hills made it to Lands End. The wind was against us - hopefully this means the wind will be with us all the way to John O'Groats! Found Lands End venry tacky and tatty. However the views are spectacular looking out to the lighthouse. Several people stopped us and we were given donations for our charity - Breast Cancer Campaign. Had photos taken with our Breast Cancer Campaign T-shirts on. More people approached us with their tales of various End to End adventures including one guy who had just driven to and from Lands End in his car - why? Not having eaten since 8am we thought this was an ideal place to eat a Cornish pasty. We sat outside and whilst Linda was buying her pasty I wandered off to look at the view - came back to find a seagull engorging itself on my pasty! Finally got on the bike and started our journey and went just 4 miles to our first Bed and Breakfast called Bolankan Cottage at Crows an Wra which means ' witches cross'. A delightful BandB with hosts Lynn and Les. The nearest pub was more than a mile away but Les kindly took us there.Whilst waiting for our food we noticed that the place mats were advertising the BNP! If we could have gone elsewhere we would have done but instead we ate our steaks and chips, drank a bottle of wine and bemoaned the insidious encroachment of the BNP. However it was a great pub and did not seem to be full of fascists.

Jeff and Linda leaving Exeter for Land's End on day 1 of trip.

Lands End to John O'Groats

After weeks of preparations involving booking on the internet some 24 bed and breakfasts and hotels we are off on our tandem to do the longest cycle journey so far. The biggest hassle has been to get the bike and ourselves to the starting point and then getting back at the end of our trip i.e. some train companies will not take a tandem - such as Scotrail. However we have prepared as much as we can, we are both fit and keen to get started. The tandem awaits us in Exeter where it is being looked after by some friends. We will get to their house late on the 17th June, spend the next day checking out the bike and then the following day will catch the train from Exeter to Penzance. From there it is 12 miles to Lands End. We will have the customary photo call wearing T shirts supplied by Breast Cancer Research and then will cycle just a few miles to our first bed and breakfast and then the journey starts in earnest on June 20th.