Well it has been the most wonderful experience and a trip that we have both looked forward to for a long time. I thought I would be lost without the daily routine of cycling to the next place of our journey, but being back home in Cyprus is good and although I rememebr the trip well and often parts more than others it is good to be back.
This journey I have to say would not have happened if it had not been for Jeff ,my wonderful husband. He spent a year planning the route, booking the Bed & Breakfasts, arranging the various modes of transport to the final boxing up of the bike and getting it transported to Cambridge. A task that was done well and with great thought for both of our needs. The one thing I do miss since being back is our conversations while cycling particularly Jeffs leadership when following the route, and saying to me " gears, pedal, freewheel and bump" the communication necessary to all those stokers on the back of a tandem and ones I dearly miss now!
A trip of a life time today yes but what about the next one? It may be as good or better,.
For the money raised (nearly £1300) we gratefully thank all of you who supported our cause and charity and finally to all the many people we met in England , Wales and Scotland. we will Haste ye Back Soon.
Friday, July 17, 2009
11th July Crask Inn - Bettyhill
I being Linda missed this day off so sorry but here it is for you all to read.
Had porridge for breakfast plus Scottish. Mike and his wife have had the Crask Inn for 12 years, had been closed some time before they bought it. They also farm -sheep and cattle. Generous donation £20 for our charity. As we got ready to leave we were besieged by midges - first we had suffered - and had to cycle off quickly off before we went completely mad. We told Mike we were cycling to Bettyhill and staying at Bettyhill Hotel. He warned us that Bettyhill on a Saturday night was quite something!.
The road was single track and virtually empty landscape - open moorland and barren with some pine plantation. Got to Altraharra where one road to Tongue and ours to Bettyhill. We followed Loch Navar and then Naver River which apparently is a famous salmon river. In fact we came across a fisherman carrying a large salmon. The route was generally flat and gradually going downhill but of course this does not mean there were a lot of hills - which there were. It was again cold but not raining despite the forecast. Beautiful scenery but with a sad history as these areas were the Clearance Areas of 1700's eg. Achanlochy Clearance Villages.
Finally got to Bettyhill Hotel. Our room has fantastic views over beaches and sea. Great room but virtually no television reception so we are watching a seriously crap DVD waiting for our dinner as we are ,as usual, hungry.
Got to Bettyhill in less than 3 hours (33 miles)
Had dinner overlooking the beach, river estuary and sea - quite stunning. Good dinner and we both slept well.
Had porridge for breakfast plus Scottish. Mike and his wife have had the Crask Inn for 12 years, had been closed some time before they bought it. They also farm -sheep and cattle. Generous donation £20 for our charity. As we got ready to leave we were besieged by midges - first we had suffered - and had to cycle off quickly off before we went completely mad. We told Mike we were cycling to Bettyhill and staying at Bettyhill Hotel. He warned us that Bettyhill on a Saturday night was quite something!.
The road was single track and virtually empty landscape - open moorland and barren with some pine plantation. Got to Altraharra where one road to Tongue and ours to Bettyhill. We followed Loch Navar and then Naver River which apparently is a famous salmon river. In fact we came across a fisherman carrying a large salmon. The route was generally flat and gradually going downhill but of course this does not mean there were a lot of hills - which there were. It was again cold but not raining despite the forecast. Beautiful scenery but with a sad history as these areas were the Clearance Areas of 1700's eg. Achanlochy Clearance Villages.
Finally got to Bettyhill Hotel. Our room has fantastic views over beaches and sea. Great room but virtually no television reception so we are watching a seriously crap DVD waiting for our dinner as we are ,as usual, hungry.
Got to Bettyhill in less than 3 hours (33 miles)
Had dinner overlooking the beach, river estuary and sea - quite stunning. Good dinner and we both slept well.
Monday, July 13, 2009
July 12th Bettyhill - John O Groat's
With hindsight and without doubt the most difficult day - not because of the terrain,although it was quite hilly particularly between Bettyhill and Thurso, but because of struggling against gale force northerly winds. We were blown about and it was a real struggle to keep the tandem upright. Fortunately it was Sunday morning and the traffic was light. We stopped at the Royal Hotel Thurso just as it begain to rain. Had coffee and the usual, surreptitious, bacon sarnnie. Within minutes of leaving Thurso we had to stop to get into our wet weather gear as it started to rain hard. So for the next 20 miles we not only had the wind but also torrential driving rain! Finally cycled into John O 'Groats, had our photos taken, registered for End to End certificate and had a Costa coffee! John O 'Groats is touristy but not tacky in the way that Lands End is. Room in Sea View Hotal is very small which makes it difficult to dry our very wet clothes. Had a lot to drink and good food for dinner. In our hotel last night was a young man who had just run the End to End ( he featured on the national news) it took him 6 weeks, an Australian who had walked it - 70 days and of course ourselves. At John O' Groats itself we arrived a few minutes before two cyclists and just in front of 6 young men, all of whom had been supported ie others had transported their bags each day. Did not manage to telephone all the family of our arrival as we could not get a signal on our mobile. (53 miles)
Saturday, July 11, 2009
july 10th Inverness - Crask Inn
Negotiated our way through Inverness traffic and then cycled over the Kessock Bridge which seperates Beauly Firth to the west from Moray Firth to the east. We decided to stay on A9 from Tore but traffic was heavy and so cycling was tricky particularly over the bridge to the east of Dingwall crossing Cromarty Firth because even though we cycled on the path buses and lorries seemed very close and made little, if any, alowance for us. This peninsular between Dingwall and Inverness is called The Black Isle. After we cycled past Alness and left A9 cycling was good with little traffic. However it was a tough day as we had many long hills to climb with an unremitting northerly wind blowing against us - thankfully it did not rain. Stopped on Guinie Hill ( 660 feet above sea level) and admired beautful views across Dornoch Loch and Kyle of Sutherland; could see clearly mountains 20 miles away. Stopped at Bonar Bridge for soup and cheese roll. Cycled alongside Kyle of Sutherland, past Carbisdale Castle and Falls of Shin to Lairg. Jeff had underestimated ! our milage ( Linda said not for the first time ! ) and we were now getting very tired. Cycled beside Loch Shin- by now the road was single track - a few cars came in the opposite direction but not a single vehicle overtook us. Cycled through Dalchork Wood but mostly very barren Sutherland landscape with moorland and pine plantations. It was reasonably flat, although gradually going up hill. Very few houses - a very wild area. Eventually came to the Crask Inn. We had been warned about it, but had also met a cyclist that day who had stayed the previous night and said the food was brilliant so we were not sure what to expect. In fact the evening was one of the highlights of our trip, not least because David and Morven, from Islay who were over staying with Morven's sister in Alness had taken the trouble to drive for nearly an hour to spend the evening with us. The room was excellent with a comfortable bed. It had been very cold all day so the central heating was on so we were able to wash and dry all our clothes. Just as we arrived - literally within two minutes David and Morven drove up. after a few photos we settled into the bar and had some drinks and then some more. Dinner was excellent; three of us had venison stew and dumplings and Morven had goats cheese and tomato tart. The Inn had two French fisherman, three irish geologists ,five sheep shearers ( two Brits, three kiwis) and a number of cyclists - it made for a great atmosphere in the bar. An altogether memorable evening. (65 miles and not 47 as Jeff had originally estimated!)
July 9th Kingcraig - Inverness
We started off in rain and arrived in Inverness in rain! It rained on and off all day but the most difficult aspect of cycling was the wind blowing from the north. On occasions Jeff had difficulty holding the tandem on the road. Continued along route7 on an escarpment above river Spey. Avoided Aviemore and A9 as route7 followed B970 with Abernethy Forest on our right. Crossed the Spey at Boat of Gartan and then route 7 followed the A9 to Carrbridge where we stopped for coffee. Once again route 7 very quiet and surfaces good.
Stopped on Findhorn Bridge crossing Findhorn River and took photo's of the two bridges in the distance crossing the river and carrying A9 and railway. Stopped neat Moy and ate our bacon sarnnies. Eventually made it to Inverness and got lost so the B&B owner came and found us in his car and we followed him back to his house. B&B ok saved for the fact that the boiler had just broken and therefore no hot water! So we are sitting here, sticky and smelly, from our journey. B&B very close to the town centre - from the end of our road we walked down the Market Brae steps and there was the centre of Inverness. Linda immediatley saw a Costa Coffee!
Met tosh and Helen who work in Inverness but live in Nairn. They took us to a chinese " eat as much as you can for a tenner" and we did not let them down. It was great to see them but we will see them again in Pachna when they are out for three weeks staying in their house.
Inverness is a fine city particularly by the river. However effect of credit crunch all too obvious with so many businesses closed down and " for Let" signs everywhere.
Superb breakfast great choice of fruit and cereals plus Scottish breakfast (50 miles)
Stopped on Findhorn Bridge crossing Findhorn River and took photo's of the two bridges in the distance crossing the river and carrying A9 and railway. Stopped neat Moy and ate our bacon sarnnies. Eventually made it to Inverness and got lost so the B&B owner came and found us in his car and we followed him back to his house. B&B ok saved for the fact that the boiler had just broken and therefore no hot water! So we are sitting here, sticky and smelly, from our journey. B&B very close to the town centre - from the end of our road we walked down the Market Brae steps and there was the centre of Inverness. Linda immediatley saw a Costa Coffee!
Met tosh and Helen who work in Inverness but live in Nairn. They took us to a chinese " eat as much as you can for a tenner" and we did not let them down. It was great to see them but we will see them again in Pachna when they are out for three weeks staying in their house.
Inverness is a fine city particularly by the river. However effect of credit crunch all too obvious with so many businesses closed down and " for Let" signs everywhere.
Superb breakfast great choice of fruit and cereals plus Scottish breakfast (50 miles)
July 8th Calvine - Kincraig
It was cold so we put on our lycra trousers for the first time and it rained or drizzled on and off for much of the day but we got most pummeling from the Northerly wind. From Calvine we were able to cycle on track - free roads, tracks or paths all the way to Newtonmore. We climbed steadly up the Dromochter Pass - about 15 miles . It was hard because of the winds. Suddenly came across an adult stag with superb antlers grazing beside our path. It was as surprised as we were. Linda tried to photograph it but it was off! Route 7 was really most impressive: just a few areas where the surface was a bit broken up. Coffee at Dalwhinnie, just a hotel and a few houses, really a centre for outdoor activites as we are now officially in the Highlands. The path followed the river and for much of the time the main Inverness railway line. The A9 rumbled to our right. Cycled pastLoch Garry and Loch Ericht. When we got to Newtonmore the river Spey joined our river near Ralia. Had our bacon sarnnies in a park in Kingussie and then on B970 above the river valley of the River Spey. cycled through Insh, a tiny village where Linda's mother was born, and then to Loch Insh and Kincraig which stands at the end of the Loch. The Ossian Hotel seems a little old fashioned and of a good standard. We had a great room with views looking across the Loch to the Monadhliath mountains.
Had a most enjoyable evening. met a local couple with their relative from South Africa all of hume insisted we had their addresses. The lady from Durban particularly keen that we visit her. Excellent meal. Only one other person staying in the hotel - a rep of a firm selling bikes and accessories. We enjoyed our breakfast with him. Jeff had haddock and a poached egg! ( 41 miles)
Had a most enjoyable evening. met a local couple with their relative from South Africa all of hume insisted we had their addresses. The lady from Durban particularly keen that we visit her. Excellent meal. Only one other person staying in the hotel - a rep of a firm selling bikes and accessories. We enjoyed our breakfast with him. Jeff had haddock and a poached egg! ( 41 miles)
July 7th Aberfeldy - Calvine
An easy days ride with good weather ie it did not rain! Cycled on route 7 alongside river Tay in full flood after the recent rain. This stretch of river used by National Kayak school. Cycled across River tay on listed viaduct bridge owned by Logierait Bridge Company. Restored 2001 that cost £400.000. Now owned by the local comunity. Crossed A9 and continued on route 7 to Pitlochry where we stopped for coffee. Met a couple doing End to End who set off at about the same time as us and were due to arrive like us on July 12th at John 0' Groats. Found an internet place and updated our blog and then on through Killiecrankie, where the curious name is the best place about the place, passed Blair castle and Blair Atholl and onto Calvine which we reached in record time because the road was flat. Struan Inn not in Calvine but in Struan! Half a mile further down a steep hill which means up a steep hill in the morning.
We have seen over the last few days a number of signs saying "Beware squirrels". Today we came across a sign saying " Beware Red squirrels". I was just saying to Linda that I had never seen a red squirrel when one obligingly ran across the road in front of us. We tried to photogragh it but it was too canny and went too high in the tree.
Struan Gorge has road and rail bridges over the dramatic rapids - water roaring 30 feet below us.
We had dinner by ourselves in a room set to seat 26! Although the landlady had maintained high standards she was in fact trying to sell and she said her heart was no longer in it. It seemed a little sad. It was cold, windy, rainy, and she had the central heating on. She produced a great Scottish breakfast and gave us a generous donation. (50 miles)
We have seen over the last few days a number of signs saying "Beware squirrels". Today we came across a sign saying " Beware Red squirrels". I was just saying to Linda that I had never seen a red squirrel when one obligingly ran across the road in front of us. We tried to photogragh it but it was too canny and went too high in the tree.
Struan Gorge has road and rail bridges over the dramatic rapids - water roaring 30 feet below us.
We had dinner by ourselves in a room set to seat 26! Although the landlady had maintained high standards she was in fact trying to sell and she said her heart was no longer in it. It seemed a little sad. It was cold, windy, rainy, and she had the central heating on. She produced a great Scottish breakfast and gave us a generous donation. (50 miles)
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
July 6th Callendar - Aberfeldy
Had a really dificult day's cycling as it poured with rain from about 9. 20am after we left our
B&B at 8.50am and continued non - stop until 3.40pm ( we arrived at 4pm). We had sleet and thunder. Our wet weather gear once again kept us reasonably dry but with the wind and rain battering against us it made for an uncomfortable day. Set off and cycled along Clyde path 7 along the Falls of Leny - continious rapid for miles. Path not too bad although had to walk in a couple of places. By the time we got to the Kings House Hotel we were dripping wet and in need of a coffee.. AT first the hotel manager was not impressed with two cyclists coming into his hotel with wet capes, jackets, gloves and hats dripping all over his floor but he got over it!Decided to abandon NO 7 cycle path as too treacherous in this weather and took A84 along Glen Ogle, through Lochearnhead. Traffic not too bad. Cycled a further 15 miles to Killin. We stopped at hotel opposite the Falls of Dochart - spectacular rapids, and found the hotel was full of bedraggled cyclists and walkers. 3 guys cycling from Galsgow to Inverness. We had bread and soup ( Culhen Skink and Parsnip and bacon ) Felt restored and continued A827 alongside Loch Tay for 16 miles to kenmore. Dramatic scenery particularly with the low cloud cover hanging over the loch ( and us)! 7 miles from Kenmore we arrived at Aberfeldy - a pretty town. Eventually found Cathy Ross our B&B and Cathy was so welcoming - it was the perfect place to arrive. We were able to hang up on washing lines our wet clothes and then we had tea and freshly baked shortbread with Cathy; she also agreed to wash and dry our clothes! Cathy was a great hostess - she produced a grand breakfast - we had haggis, bacon,sausage,sliced sausage, black pudding and poached egg! Oat cakes, roll, toast and lots of fruit. By the morning all our clothes were dry and clean!
B&B at 8.50am and continued non - stop until 3.40pm ( we arrived at 4pm). We had sleet and thunder. Our wet weather gear once again kept us reasonably dry but with the wind and rain battering against us it made for an uncomfortable day. Set off and cycled along Clyde path 7 along the Falls of Leny - continious rapid for miles. Path not too bad although had to walk in a couple of places. By the time we got to the Kings House Hotel we were dripping wet and in need of a coffee.. AT first the hotel manager was not impressed with two cyclists coming into his hotel with wet capes, jackets, gloves and hats dripping all over his floor but he got over it!Decided to abandon NO 7 cycle path as too treacherous in this weather and took A84 along Glen Ogle, through Lochearnhead. Traffic not too bad. Cycled a further 15 miles to Killin. We stopped at hotel opposite the Falls of Dochart - spectacular rapids, and found the hotel was full of bedraggled cyclists and walkers. 3 guys cycling from Galsgow to Inverness. We had bread and soup ( Culhen Skink and Parsnip and bacon ) Felt restored and continued A827 alongside Loch Tay for 16 miles to kenmore. Dramatic scenery particularly with the low cloud cover hanging over the loch ( and us)! 7 miles from Kenmore we arrived at Aberfeldy - a pretty town. Eventually found Cathy Ross our B&B and Cathy was so welcoming - it was the perfect place to arrive. We were able to hang up on washing lines our wet clothes and then we had tea and freshly baked shortbread with Cathy; she also agreed to wash and dry our clothes! Cathy was a great hostess - she produced a grand breakfast - we had haggis, bacon,sausage,sliced sausage, black pudding and poached egg! Oat cakes, roll, toast and lots of fruit. By the morning all our clothes were dry and clean!
July 5th Glasgow - Callandar
A really great day. We were not disappointed today by the cycle path. We set off at 8am and were able to cycle along the Clyde, through an industrial area and then along The Clyde Canal. It really was an idyllic scene with the river Clyde on left and canal on our right. Path well maintained and we met lots of cyclists and walkers - the only problem on 2 ocassions was negotiating gates - on each one we had to take off all the bags and get help from passing cyclists to lift the bike over the gate. Took photos at Bowling where the Puffer fishing boats used to be made. cycled across river into Dumbarton which is very pretty away from main road. Cycled along the river through Alexandria to Balloch and then onto Loch Lomond where we had coffee at Thortons and ate some delicious cakes.. beautiful weather all day. Cycled back to Ballock and then up through Ballock castle Country park to Drymin. This was a long hard climb. From Drymin we cycled through Garadhban Forest on the forest trail to Gartmore and on to Aberfoyle where we had a drink at a pub and then ate our bacon sandwiches sitting on a bench. From Aberfoyle we not only had a very stiff climb but we had to cycle on a very rough forest trail which made us worry about punctures. The views were fantastic. We cycled down to Loch Drunkie and then alongside the loch all the way to Callandar. Callandar centre is the Rob Roy tourist industry! He is buried nearby.
Had a really good Italian meal; had to book as restaurant very busy. B&B ok but first place been to where host decided how much cereal we could have! (64 miles)
Had a really good Italian meal; had to book as restaurant very busy. B&B ok but first place been to where host decided how much cereal we could have! (64 miles)
Saturday, July 4, 2009
July 4th Moffat - Glasgow
Rain kept off and we cycled up a long hill out of Moffat, which seemed a rather old - fashioned town. The daft B&B owner said it was all uphill to Glasgow. In fact it was not a difficult ride. There were long slow hills and relatively little traffic. The cycle path was pretty good ,as they were in Lancashire and Cumbria; there is a tendency in some places for cycle paths to be a depository of glass, parked cars and areas where tarmac is breaking up. We both felt a little leaden- legged this morning. Linda atributed this to the disgustingly weak coffee we had at breakfast! Eventually we found a great hotel just off our B road and we had somedelicious coffee.We both felt restored and cycled on - although Glasgow sign - posted said 25 miles away we started cycling through places that felt like Glasgow - overspill. As it started to rain as we got to Hamilton we had a coffee at a Holiday Inn and ate our bacon sandwiches! We made it to Uddingston ( where Christina spent some of her childhood- she always said we moved out of Glasgow to Uddingston but until today Jeff thought it was just a suburb) We quickly found the Clyde Cycleway but in somr respects it was disappointing as for the first couple of miles we had to keep stopping because of broken glass strewn over the cycle paths. We were amazed as to how rural it all was and what an interesting river, with numerous rapids, the Clyde is. But we felt the path was unkempt and little used. We saw no more than two or three other cyclists and a similar numbers of walkers. It was a very long ride from Uddingston to Glasgow centre. We had already been warned by the police and by a man in the street that the Orange Order Parade was on today and we shoeld be aware of drunke gangs. As we got to the city centre we came across the March. It was enormous stretching for miles with some 90 bands. It was in one way good to see so many Scots marching behind the Union flag but nevertheless one felt uncomfortable particularly looking at some of the supporters! We had to stop eventually as cycleway blocked by so many people coming from the opposite direction. We had a couple of incidents with drunken youths which frightend Linda but somehow we managed not to get into any serious bother. The Kelvingrove Hotel is very good ( 58 miles)
July 3rd Brampton - Moffat
Easier ride today as relatively flat. Went over Rvers Lyne and Esk. Took photos as we got to Scotland and Gretna Green. Short stop at Longtown and then coffee at Lockerbie. Were given 12 pounds by various customers in the cafe including the owner. Disappointed by Ecclefechan - birthplace of philosopher Robert Carlyle - looked downright seedy. Our road followed the M74 and we crossed it several times. Jeff always feels good when he cycles over a motorway as for him it is somehow an expression of freedom. We stopped at a lorry park when it started to rain and had a cup of tea and then got togged up with our wet weather gear. We then cycled for the next 90 minutes in very heavy rain. Fortunately the road had a good cycle path. It rained so hard that Jeff had difficulty seeing through his glasses. We arrived like a pair of drowned rats at the B& B at Moffat. The B& B was ok - just - but its one redeeming feature was a bath! (52 miles)
July 2nd Tebay - Brampton
Jeff slept 10 hours and Linda did not sleep much at all; she was bitten numerous times and said! she could hear asphalt being laid! It rained during the night but we had a great day weather-wise, although very hot. Had a number of hills to climb but not so strenuous as yesterday but chain kept coming off and eventually broke! As luck would have it after walking about a mile we came across a recovery garage (adjacent to the M6) and they took us and the tandem to Penrith. Bike repair shop mended chain and (apparantly) the gears. However we had only gone a mile or so out of Penrith when the gears started slipping again. As the problem was in the lower gears we attempted to cycle up the hills in the higher gears - result totally knackered. Thankfully the countryside was much gentler than yesterday and so we sauntered into Brampton at 3.30pm. The Nag's Head, where we were due to stay, had already rung us up three times; finally persuading us not to stay with them as they had various parties that night which were going to be raucous. So we were taken to a B& B called the Oval House. We had a great room with plenty of space and nice and quiet. In the B& B every room is named after a composer. We are staying in Mendellson! The rooms are full of great paintings, many of which were painted by Jane, the owner. She has a poem for each day prominently displayed on a music stand in the breakfast room.
Jeff fiddled around with the gears and since then they have been working well. Very glad we did not stay at The Nag's Head as the licence is until 2am! After a good meal and one or two drinks as we settled down on the bed; Linda fell asleep and promptly fell out of bed! (50 miles)
Jeff fiddled around with the gears and since then they have been working well. Very glad we did not stay at The Nag's Head as the licence is until 2am! After a good meal and one or two drinks as we settled down on the bed; Linda fell asleep and promptly fell out of bed! (50 miles)
July 1st Whalley - Tebay
Breakfast 7.30am and managed to leave by 8.30am. Immediately we were climbing some ferocious hills. This was to be , by far , our most tiring day. We actually cycled 67 miles as cycled across the Forest of Bowland. Gradually climbed up and up onto the moorlands. The scenery was spectacular. We could see the Yorkshire Dales on our right. We cycled through Lancashire, North Yorkshire and then Cumbria. The flies, particularly horse flies, were out in force and whenever we cycled slowly i.e. uphill or when staionary the flies moved in for the kill.
We finally made it to Higher Bentham and virtually fell into the first pub we saw and surreptitiously ate our bacon sarnies. We were both seriously knackered- perhaps later summed up in the following conversation as we cycled up yet another long hill.
Jeff - Look at that fantastic view.
Linda - never mind the f........ g view where's the top of the hill?
Stopped briefly at Kirkby Lonsdale where we bought some ice cream and watched people swimming in the river Lune. Got to Tebay and then had diffuculty finding our B& B! Owner gave us a donation. The room was impossibly small. You had to go in sideways to the shower! (67 miles)
We finally made it to Higher Bentham and virtually fell into the first pub we saw and surreptitiously ate our bacon sarnies. We were both seriously knackered- perhaps later summed up in the following conversation as we cycled up yet another long hill.
Jeff - Look at that fantastic view.
Linda - never mind the f........ g view where's the top of the hill?
Stopped briefly at Kirkby Lonsdale where we bought some ice cream and watched people swimming in the river Lune. Got to Tebay and then had diffuculty finding our B& B! Owner gave us a donation. The room was impossibly small. You had to go in sideways to the shower! (67 miles)
June 30th Knutsford - Whalley
Day started with heavy rain; thankfully after breakfast when we set off the rain had stopped and although it threatended several times during the day we remained dry although it was very humid. First 30 miles to Chorley were relatively flat although it was mainly through the Greater Manchester conurbation so mainly urban areas but traffic not too bad and no one cut us up.
We crossed the Manchester Ship Canal and took photos of this and the Leigh town sign. Clare had been very rude about Leigh but it was not too dreary although it must be said the best thing about the town was the sign!
As we climbed up the hills between Blackburn and Preston we had glorious views of the North Lancashire Plains. Our hotel is in a secure village with gates! It also houses Blackburn Rovers FC training ground. We met somebody living in the village who told us that the site was originally a very large mental hospital that closed in the 1970s. 500 houses have now been built. However it reminded Linda of the film the Stepford Wives. (50 miles)
We crossed the Manchester Ship Canal and took photos of this and the Leigh town sign. Clare had been very rude about Leigh but it was not too dreary although it must be said the best thing about the town was the sign!
As we climbed up the hills between Blackburn and Preston we had glorious views of the North Lancashire Plains. Our hotel is in a secure village with gates! It also houses Blackburn Rovers FC training ground. We met somebody living in the village who told us that the site was originally a very large mental hospital that closed in the 1970s. 500 houses have now been built. However it reminded Linda of the film the Stepford Wives. (50 miles)
Monday, June 29, 2009
June 28th - Market Drayton - Knutsford
Had a 7am breakfast and on the road by 7.50am. Almost immediatally got lost but no one to ask as everybody still in bed! Much easier cycling as relatively flat - however this means that ones bottom becomes number quicker as when it is hilly one can free-wheel down the hill and relieve the pressure on ones posterior!
Funny world.
Had coffee in Middlewich - two young builders on roof opposite immediately engaged us in conversation about our tandem. They were keen mountain bikers; there is a kind of camaraderie when one meets other cyclists. Quality of coffee and cake excellect. We have been amazed at the quality of small cafes in the town where we have stopped. Had to do some cycling on 'A' roads- people seem to misjudge the length of the tandem and cut in too soon. About 20 miles from Knutsford - we saw it signposted - a great cheer from us both, as looking forward to seeing Clare and family.
Arrived 12.45pm and have been resting, eating, drinking and sleeping. A great place for a bit of TLC.
Funny world.
Had coffee in Middlewich - two young builders on roof opposite immediately engaged us in conversation about our tandem. They were keen mountain bikers; there is a kind of camaraderie when one meets other cyclists. Quality of coffee and cake excellect. We have been amazed at the quality of small cafes in the town where we have stopped. Had to do some cycling on 'A' roads- people seem to misjudge the length of the tandem and cut in too soon. About 20 miles from Knutsford - we saw it signposted - a great cheer from us both, as looking forward to seeing Clare and family.
Arrived 12.45pm and have been resting, eating, drinking and sleeping. A great place for a bit of TLC.
June 27th Ludlow - Market Drayton
Good Breakfast!
Dry day - started off cycling through very quiet Shropshire roads; distinctive architecture and unspoilt. Very hilly. Directions were good today and only got lost once! Had a coffee at a very pretty Much Wenlock and then onto Little wenlock' skirted around Telford and then through the Wrekin gap. When we stopped to check directions a walker gave us a donation of £2. As we dropped down from the Wrekin we saw the Shrewsbury Plain stretching out in front of us- a glorious sight after so many hills. At Water Upton a shopkeeper rushed out as we cycled towards his shop and gave us each a bottle of cold water and said' its people like you that make a difference'! He then ran back into his shop! One really does see human nature at its best on trips like this. Stopped at The Hermitage Guest House ,Market Drayton. The landlady was very odd! She had the central heating on - the day was hot- we asked her to turn off the radiator in our room. The next day as we left she said how lucky we were to be in the fresh air whilst she was at home -' sometimes its like a sauna in here'!
I wondered why I asked myself? She insisted on us paying in advance for our accomodation- did we look that dodgy?
However the room was fine and breakfast (yes full English) was excellent.Did 54 miles today.
Dry day - started off cycling through very quiet Shropshire roads; distinctive architecture and unspoilt. Very hilly. Directions were good today and only got lost once! Had a coffee at a very pretty Much Wenlock and then onto Little wenlock' skirted around Telford and then through the Wrekin gap. When we stopped to check directions a walker gave us a donation of £2. As we dropped down from the Wrekin we saw the Shrewsbury Plain stretching out in front of us- a glorious sight after so many hills. At Water Upton a shopkeeper rushed out as we cycled towards his shop and gave us each a bottle of cold water and said' its people like you that make a difference'! He then ran back into his shop! One really does see human nature at its best on trips like this. Stopped at The Hermitage Guest House ,Market Drayton. The landlady was very odd! She had the central heating on - the day was hot- we asked her to turn off the radiator in our room. The next day as we left she said how lucky we were to be in the fresh air whilst she was at home -' sometimes its like a sauna in here'!
I wondered why I asked myself? She insisted on us paying in advance for our accomodation- did we look that dodgy?
However the room was fine and breakfast (yes full English) was excellent.Did 54 miles today.
June 26th Ross - on- Wye to Ludlow
Free coffee from landlady of Moon Inn at Mordiford as she took pity on us as we arrived totally drenched having cycled through heavy rain. Donation from couple in the pub! Ross B& B was super ( 4 star) - they were previously antique dealers and it showed throughout the house.
Still having trouble with the gears - kept slipping, kept having to walk up hills when gears failed to get into lower gear. Then the heavens opened and the rain came down. Our wet weather gear was effective but felt that cycling cape was unsafe. Went down so many very steep hills and used drag brake to avoid us slipping over as roads quite greasy after so many dry days.
Cycled through Leominster and then had a late lunch. Stopped for a very short pee stop at Hampton Court Palace.
Shortly after Ross we cycled alongside the river Wye- a single track road - virtually no traffic- an idyllic scene.
When we got to Leominster found a cycle shop- after 5 minutes he had sorted the gears and absolutely refused to take any payment - we said it was equivalent of a donation.
Finally - rather damp got to Ludlow in Shropshire ( Ross is Herefordshire) - to Cecil Guest House - 3 star going on 1 star - just about acceptable. (Tourist Board ought to reveiw star awards as last night was 4 star but so much better than tonights 3 star)
Dreary very small room; shower head covered in mildew and the reception smelt of damp.
However the rather obsequious owner ,who told us the same story several times of his car trip to the north of Scotland and about the aged cyclist who had to be rescued by his daughter after abandoning his End to End trip , did dry our clothes for us which were very damp. Did 52 miles today.
Still having trouble with the gears - kept slipping, kept having to walk up hills when gears failed to get into lower gear. Then the heavens opened and the rain came down. Our wet weather gear was effective but felt that cycling cape was unsafe. Went down so many very steep hills and used drag brake to avoid us slipping over as roads quite greasy after so many dry days.
Cycled through Leominster and then had a late lunch. Stopped for a very short pee stop at Hampton Court Palace.
Shortly after Ross we cycled alongside the river Wye- a single track road - virtually no traffic- an idyllic scene.
When we got to Leominster found a cycle shop- after 5 minutes he had sorted the gears and absolutely refused to take any payment - we said it was equivalent of a donation.
Finally - rather damp got to Ludlow in Shropshire ( Ross is Herefordshire) - to Cecil Guest House - 3 star going on 1 star - just about acceptable. (Tourist Board ought to reveiw star awards as last night was 4 star but so much better than tonights 3 star)
Dreary very small room; shower head covered in mildew and the reception smelt of damp.
However the rather obsequious owner ,who told us the same story several times of his car trip to the north of Scotland and about the aged cyclist who had to be rescued by his daughter after abandoning his End to End trip , did dry our clothes for us which were very damp. Did 52 miles today.
June 25th Yate - Ross- on- Wye
Did not get lost so often today but directions still crap! Had a glorious cycle over Severn Bridge - met another cyclist half way over who stopped for a chat. Bypassed Chepstow and then made for Tintern and had a coffee in a hotel overlooking Tintern Abbey. Fantastic scanery as we dropped down to the Wye River but then we had a climb out again via St Briavels - the hill was a monster; we started walking halfway up- met the postman and a dust cart ( that had to back up to let us pass) who laughed at us trying to get up this hill.
Cycled through Forest of Dean and along the valley to Ross - on - Wye. Stopped at a lovely B& B - very posh with large rooms but in a rather poor part of town where so many businessess have closed down. We had to get to this particulaler B& B by 6pm as our hosts are both in a choir that was performing in the local theatre tonight.
Experienced how some people live - went to local launderet to wash our clothes - it was unmanned - first we had to get soap powder (machine was broken) so I tramped off to nearby Morrisons; when I returned we then had 45 mins wait until machine cycle finished. Then the waiting for the clothes to dry in the driers which said it took 50 pences but it did not so I tramped off to Morrisons again to get 20 pences.
Had a delicious meal that evening at a Nepalese Restaurant - had a chat with the owner who said he was struggling although restaurant had 10 people in when we were there. (similar to Chinese restaurant in Bridgewater where owner from mainland China where Olympic sailing took place ; he also said he was finding it difficult (52 miles)
Cycled through Forest of Dean and along the valley to Ross - on - Wye. Stopped at a lovely B& B - very posh with large rooms but in a rather poor part of town where so many businessess have closed down. We had to get to this particulaler B& B by 6pm as our hosts are both in a choir that was performing in the local theatre tonight.
Experienced how some people live - went to local launderet to wash our clothes - it was unmanned - first we had to get soap powder (machine was broken) so I tramped off to nearby Morrisons; when I returned we then had 45 mins wait until machine cycle finished. Then the waiting for the clothes to dry in the driers which said it took 50 pences but it did not so I tramped off to Morrisons again to get 20 pences.
Had a delicious meal that evening at a Nepalese Restaurant - had a chat with the owner who said he was struggling although restaurant had 10 people in when we were there. (similar to Chinese restaurant in Bridgewater where owner from mainland China where Olympic sailing took place ; he also said he was finding it difficult (52 miles)
June 24th bridgewater - Yate
First 7 miles were flat but then came the Polden Hills. We struggled to the top; a car was stationery - as we got to it a lady driver jumped out and gave us £5 for BCC ! We then cycled across the Somerset Levels - rather Fen -like but hedged fields with numerous dairy herds with drainage ditches. Got to Cheddar and met a couple who gave us £5 donation. We drove through Chedder - rather tatty and touristy and then we were in the Gorge itself. We managed to cycle all the way up - at one point definitely mind over matter as our calves ,in particular , were burning. It was a great cycling day although quite hot, particularly this afternoon. We are not drinking enough water - urine very yellow! and this morning I had a headache which immedialty disappeared when I drank water and had something to eat. Whilst we had stopped for some water a cyclist,who had cycled past us, came back and wished us all the best. He had no money with him but wanted us to know his mother had died of breast cancer and thanked us for riding in support of breast cancer research.. Had glorious 5 miles ride along the Bristol - Bath Railway cycle way - part of the route runs alongside an old functioning railway. It was very well used with cyclist and walkers and very well kept .We got lost several times again today so we ended up doing 64 miles and not 50 miles as our cycle route suggested - the route directions are pretty poor. We had decided not to get our gears sorted out by St Johns Cycles as we were nervous that they could be made worse; perhaps we will sort them out before our long trip next year.
Mid afternoon someone from The Railway Arms, Yate telephoned us to say our bedroom had been flooded! However he had fixed us up to stay at The Bell, Chipping Sodbury - another 1 1/2 miles! However the hotel, really a pub, seems just fine. Several times on our trip the drag brake has proved invaluable - once to stop us colliding with a car coming up a very steep hill; other times just slowing down eg. dropping down from the Mendip Hills to the Chew Valley Lake.
Room was not ensuite ; only twin beds; road was noisy and breakfast was greasy. However last nights meal was ok. May have paid twice - so will investigate! Yesterday as we cycled along a cyclist coming from opposite direction yelled' are you going all the way'? (64 miles)
Mid afternoon someone from The Railway Arms, Yate telephoned us to say our bedroom had been flooded! However he had fixed us up to stay at The Bell, Chipping Sodbury - another 1 1/2 miles! However the hotel, really a pub, seems just fine. Several times on our trip the drag brake has proved invaluable - once to stop us colliding with a car coming up a very steep hill; other times just slowing down eg. dropping down from the Mendip Hills to the Chew Valley Lake.
Room was not ensuite ; only twin beds; road was noisy and breakfast was greasy. However last nights meal was ok. May have paid twice - so will investigate! Yesterday as we cycled along a cyclist coming from opposite direction yelled' are you going all the way'? (64 miles)
June 23rd Gt Torrington - Bridgewater
Just got to South Molton - 16 miles - the hardest cycling yet - 2 hills we had to walk up as far too steep - tough just pushing the bike up the hill. Its a curious feature of cycling that as one wizzes down a long hill one cannot help speculating that the price one will pay will be a long hill up.
All End to End cyclists say that the first few days cycling through Cornwall and Devon are the most difficult - and we were not disappointed! Beautiful scenery but so many steep or long hills- sometimes both; the last were the Quantock Hills just before we got to Bridgwater. During the day we had we deveated from the CTC route as it was too hilly with narrow high hedged roads - however the road we took instead was quiet and pleasant. For much of the ride we were on a ridge overlooking hills on both sides. Had lunch at Bampton - in a rather snooty cafe and we rather let the place down! Still having trouble with the gears that keep slipping so first thing we did when we got to Bridgwater was to go to St Johns Cycles, where we bought the tandem 10 years ago and where Jeff took it in February of this year for them to sort out amongst other things the gears, - where an infuriating mechanic questioned ua about the tandem that his firm had built! He rather condescendingly agreed to have a mechanic look at the bike in the morning. Great Band B with large room and joy of joys for Linda - a bath. As we cycled she was fantasising about having a bath - she had a good soaking. Bridgewater is rather dreary, seedy town. Had a good buffet meal at nearby chinese - all you can eat for £8. We ate a lot ( well Jeff did) (7o miles )
All End to End cyclists say that the first few days cycling through Cornwall and Devon are the most difficult - and we were not disappointed! Beautiful scenery but so many steep or long hills- sometimes both; the last were the Quantock Hills just before we got to Bridgwater. During the day we had we deveated from the CTC route as it was too hilly with narrow high hedged roads - however the road we took instead was quiet and pleasant. For much of the ride we were on a ridge overlooking hills on both sides. Had lunch at Bampton - in a rather snooty cafe and we rather let the place down! Still having trouble with the gears that keep slipping so first thing we did when we got to Bridgwater was to go to St Johns Cycles, where we bought the tandem 10 years ago and where Jeff took it in February of this year for them to sort out amongst other things the gears, - where an infuriating mechanic questioned ua about the tandem that his firm had built! He rather condescendingly agreed to have a mechanic look at the bike in the morning. Great Band B with large room and joy of joys for Linda - a bath. As we cycled she was fantasising about having a bath - she had a good soaking. Bridgewater is rather dreary, seedy town. Had a good buffet meal at nearby chinese - all you can eat for £8. We ate a lot ( well Jeff did) (7o miles )
June 22nd Boscastle - Gt Torrington
Boscastle is at sea level so in the morning we had to push the bike up a very long hill as it was impossible for Linda to balance on the broken saddle whilst going up a steep hill. Eventually after several stops to massage numb bum and other nether regions we got to Bude. Eventually found a bike shop - the owner was very genial; however all the saddle stems were too big! He then telephoned a mate at a local enginerining workshop to see if he could grind down a saddle post to fit! We wandered into Bude - a curious quiet pretty town - lots of ' alternative lifestyle people'; anxiously waited for 2 hours and then returned to bike shop. He had done it! Charge was £ 50 but he said it was only £ 30 and £ 20 to cancer campaign - what a gem!
It was now 2.30pm - we are full of a very unappetising pasty ( not home made) and 26 miles to go. Eventually we made it at 6pm to Gt Torrington after some horrendous hills but stunning countryside. We were both seriously knackered. Found Eastmond Guest House easily and were given a great welcome by husband and wife. She immedialtly volunteered to wash all our clothes! Probably we looked a right sight - hot, ( as weather was very hot), sweaty, sticky and ( smelly!? - surely not). Lovely B& B and they obviously take great pride in it - centre of Torrington- pretty town but the a scene of tragedy in 1942 when 5 boys evacuated from various cities ( 3 from London) died in a fire at the 'consumption' house. Now in Black Horse having our dinner- home made fish cakes and vegetable paella - first class followed by excellent cheese well looked after. Whilst in pub 2 couples from Halstead, Essex gave us £40 for Breast Cancer - unbelievable! We are becoming experts at pub meals! B& B owners Rudi and Lona gave us £5 for our charity.The photo is of the clock tower opposite the Balck Horse Inn ( 48 miles today)
It was now 2.30pm - we are full of a very unappetising pasty ( not home made) and 26 miles to go. Eventually we made it at 6pm to Gt Torrington after some horrendous hills but stunning countryside. We were both seriously knackered. Found Eastmond Guest House easily and were given a great welcome by husband and wife. She immedialtly volunteered to wash all our clothes! Probably we looked a right sight - hot, ( as weather was very hot), sweaty, sticky and ( smelly!? - surely not). Lovely B& B and they obviously take great pride in it - centre of Torrington- pretty town but the a scene of tragedy in 1942 when 5 boys evacuated from various cities ( 3 from London) died in a fire at the 'consumption' house. Now in Black Horse having our dinner- home made fish cakes and vegetable paella - first class followed by excellent cheese well looked after. Whilst in pub 2 couples from Halstead, Essex gave us £40 for Breast Cancer - unbelievable! We are becoming experts at pub meals! B& B owners Rudi and Lona gave us £5 for our charity.The photo is of the clock tower opposite the Balck Horse Inn ( 48 miles today)
Sunday, June 28, 2009
June 21st truro - Boscastle
Woke up at 5.30am! So far most difficult part of the trip is how to manage ones non - cycling times.Jeff left his underpants at the B&B - hanging out to dry from the window! This made a change from yesterday when he left the book he was reading in the loo. Very trying day. It was very hilly and on at least 3 occasions we got lost . the directions in the CTC guide are crap!!! as I pride myself on being a good - no great navigator; (after all I am a man)! Linda snorted as I wrote this and suggested, unkindly I thought, that if I listened to her perhaps we would have got lost less often.However the day was trying because Linda's saddle broke. Earlier the bike had fallen over and we think the damage occured at that time; however it was probabaly not helped by Jeff yanking at it after Linda complanied it was sloping the wrong way - causing untold damage to her arse. I quickly discovered that I did not have the right allen key for the saddle - why - I cannot say. We stopped at a pub and the landlord very kindly lent us his allen key set: later an elderly gent did the same- however it was well and truly buggered- the old gent gave us strong sticky tape and Linda attempted to tape her saddle to the frame - there was optimisitic as we still had 25 miles hilly to go. Within minutes going up a hill the saddle went one way and Linda the other. It was now mid afternoon and hot. I suggested we walk the 25 miles - this would have taken 8 hours. Linda poo poohed this and we carried on with her clinging using her strong sensual thighs to keep her grip on the saddle! As we went up hill she kept her grip on the saddle whilst raising her bottom from the seat - this was a sight to behold. We had to keep stopping as Linda was rapidly screwing up her back and bruising her nether regions. However showing her usual gutsy self we kept going and eventually arrived in Boscastle.
Beautiful countryside - rolling hills - we often could see the sea; glimpsed Newquay - saw several windsurfers. Often narrow roads with high hedges.
Dilemma tomorrow. If Linda's bottom is too sore Jeff will take a taxi to Bude to get a new saddle.
Boscastle is a pretty fishing village - the scene of a devastating flood in August 2004 - 100 properties flooded, 3 buildings swept away, scores of people rescued from roofs. No one drowned.
Village has been beautifully restored and infastructure changed eg. river widenened to try and prevent recurrence of flooding. (Good B& B ; did 44 miles today).
Beautiful countryside - rolling hills - we often could see the sea; glimpsed Newquay - saw several windsurfers. Often narrow roads with high hedges.
Dilemma tomorrow. If Linda's bottom is too sore Jeff will take a taxi to Bude to get a new saddle.
Boscastle is a pretty fishing village - the scene of a devastating flood in August 2004 - 100 properties flooded, 3 buildings swept away, scores of people rescued from roofs. No one drowned.
Village has been beautifully restored and infastructure changed eg. river widenened to try and prevent recurrence of flooding. (Good B& B ; did 44 miles today).
June 20th - Land End to Truro
The first of our Full English Breakfasts and what a great start to the day plus our hosts gave us a donation for our charity! The day was overcast with occasional sun. We cycled through glorious countryside following a route suggested by the CTC ( cyclists touring club ) which involves cycling on mainly B and C roads which makes the journey 200 miles longer and is more hilly but much safer and more enjoyable. We had been warned that the first few days through Cornwall and Devon were the most difficult of the entire trip because of the steep hills so we had decided to cycle shorter distances for this part of the journey. We were therefore not surprised by the steep hills and managed them easily enough. Cycled past St Michaels Mount - a beautiful scene with the sun low over the beach and a solitary figure of a man digging up lug worms. We stopped off at a pub called the Royal Oak and immediately were given a donation for our charity. Already we have found people so friendly and interested in our trip. Cornwall very rural and unspoilt. Got lost over last few miles and had to cycle on an A road. Ghastly and must avoid if we possibly can. Made it to Truro by 2.30 pm and 40 miles on the clock. We stayed the night at the Donnington Guest House where we met 2 lads doing the End to End on their mountain bikes carrying their luggage in rucksacs which seemed like hard work and very uncomfortable. Rested up for a couple of hours then had a wander round Truro - a pretty town and enjoyed the rather modern cathedral. As we looked at the Truro Town Map a man came up to us to help us and told us his sister-in-law had walked the End to End twice! Now dead through too much drink! We had a fascinating walk along the river marred by an enormous Tesco situated along the river bank. How planners had allowed this to happen is incredible. Had a Chinese and staggered back to the BandB.
The start - June 19th
Managed to get to Exeter to stay with friends Brendan and Jennie, with whom we had left the tandem, for a couple of days before we took the train to Penzance. After worrying that there would not be enough space for the tandem it was the sole occupant of the goods van. Glorious journey to Penzance with great views of the sea. Set off from Penzance and 10 miles later up some steep hills made it to Lands End. The wind was against us - hopefully this means the wind will be with us all the way to John O'Groats! Found Lands End venry tacky and tatty. However the views are spectacular looking out to the lighthouse. Several people stopped us and we were given donations for our charity - Breast Cancer Campaign. Had photos taken with our Breast Cancer Campaign T-shirts on. More people approached us with their tales of various End to End adventures including one guy who had just driven to and from Lands End in his car - why? Not having eaten since 8am we thought this was an ideal place to eat a Cornish pasty. We sat outside and whilst Linda was buying her pasty I wandered off to look at the view - came back to find a seagull engorging itself on my pasty! Finally got on the bike and started our journey and went just 4 miles to our first Bed and Breakfast called Bolankan Cottage at Crows an Wra which means ' witches cross'. A delightful BandB with hosts Lynn and Les. The nearest pub was more than a mile away but Les kindly took us there.Whilst waiting for our food we noticed that the place mats were advertising the BNP! If we could have gone elsewhere we would have done but instead we ate our steaks and chips, drank a bottle of wine and bemoaned the insidious encroachment of the BNP. However it was a great pub and did not seem to be full of fascists.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Monday, June 15, 2009
Lands End to John O'Groats
After weeks of preparations involving booking on the internet some 24 bed and breakfasts and hotels we are off on our tandem to do the longest cycle journey so far. The biggest hassle has been to get the bike and ourselves to the starting point and then getting back at the end of our trip i.e. some train companies will not take a tandem - such as Scotrail. However we have prepared as much as we can, we are both fit and keen to get started. The tandem awaits us in Exeter where it is being looked after by some friends. We will get to their house late on the 17th June, spend the next day checking out the bike and then the following day will catch the train from Exeter to Penzance. From there it is 12 miles to Lands End. We will have the customary photo call wearing T shirts supplied by Breast Cancer Research and then will cycle just a few miles to our first bed and breakfast and then the journey starts in earnest on June 20th.
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