Finale

We have arrived home safe and sound. We managed 700 miles and no punctures and nothing went wrong with the bike. Our last couple of days were spent in Singapore. We visited all the recommended sites and Jeff even let I have a day shopping on Orchard Road - the largest road full of wonderful clothes shops! He came along as well ( this was a great surprise as like many men he hates shopping) but he did it and in fact after 4 hours I got fed up as there were just too many shops and it was very hot. Of course the real problem was that we had limited space in our panniers, we were already well over our baggage allowance, and I knew that if I really did some serious retail therapy I would need a haulage truck to get it home! So to the surprise of many of my friends I resisted all temptation and only window shopped.
Jeff did remark to me as we walked up Orchard Road remember this noise when we are back at our home in Cyprus because it was very noisy everywhere. Singapore was a bit of a shock having spent 4 weeks in Malaysia suddenly to find ones self in a place not dissimilar to central New York with skyscrapers and the hustle and bustle of traffic and people. Still it was an experience.
I think we realised that the journey was the holiday because we both got impatient when we spent more than a day anywhere and felt most comfortable when we were on the bike travelling to our next destination.
We overall found the locals in every village we went to very welcoming and friendly particularly in the Muslim areas where the women showed delight at seeing a woman on the back of the tandem. Whereas the men showed shocked expressions on their faces.
For those of you who are interested we will post our photographs on this blog when we have sorted them out.
We hope this was the first of many such adventures and that you will be able to join us again on our next blog.
Adieu Jeff and Linda

Setting - the South China Sea

Our hotel in Johor Bharu overlooked the Johor Strait between Malaysia and Singapore. We had a look at the causeway which carries traffic between the two countries and we were surprised as to how narrow it is and perhaps therefore not surprised this is where the Japanese launched their attack in 1942. In the evening we had a wander into the centre of the town where we saw a faith healer surrounded by an enormous crowd - the Chinese are great believers in the supernatural. As Singapore has abolished brothels Johur Bharu has a great deal of "hair salons"! We spotted quite a few - I assured Jeff his hair did not need cutting!
The following morning - May 6Th we set off early as we wanted to do some more cycling before we went back to Singapore. We intended only to go as far as Kota Tinggi which was 25 miles away but as we got there so early we thought sod it we will go all the way to Desaru on the coast. We finally got here after 65 miles our longest trip yet. We booked into a very swish hotel by the South China Sea. Our room overlooks the beach which is only a few yards away as is a glorious swimming pool. We intend to luxuriate here for a couple of days. The place is virtually deserted. Desaru is a favourite spot for the Singaporeans who tend to come at weekends.
We forgot to share with you one of the reasons we prefer to stay in non- back packer accommodation. As we were going back to our hotel in Kota Bharu we spotted a cat with a very large mouse in its jaws - it headed across the road in front of us and went straight up the stairs of the Back Packers Lodge!
Malaysia really is trying hard to ensure all ethnic groups live happily together. There is a lot of mixed marriages, all people seem to be happy eating other peoples foods. On the television they have the news in Mandarin, Malay and Tamil.
This is our penultimate blog - many of you may be pleased; for the others who have enjoyed our news thank you for reading and being with us on our fantastic journey.

Confessions and other things

We confess - as Linda was riced and noodled out we had breakfast at McDonalds a place we have not been in in a very long time and of which the children will probably remember better than us. We will not be visiting again for many years !
Altogether we found Kota Bharu to be a fascinating place but it could be in a different country to where we are now namely Johur Bharu. In order to catch the Jungle train on the start of our journey South we had to get up at 1.45am so we could catch the 3.45am train to Gemas. Having sussed out the night before we knew we could not get lost! Sadly we got lost three times and arrived hot and sweaty at 3.10am only to find everything locked up and no one about. However within about ten minutes the place was alive with people and enormous quantities of produce. On our journey we saw melons, peanuts, cucumbers, durians, lycees, mangoes, live chickens, dead chickens, fish, and Linda even claims to have heard a sheep in the storage cabin! We started off the journey in a carriage with no lights and throughout the 15 hour journey the main carriage doors remained open - no sign of health and safety inspectors here. The journey took us through the most amazing scenery - of jungle, Karst - like cliffs of limestone towering out of the forest. The track went through numerous tunnels - over rivers large and small - an amazing engineering feat. We stopped at least forty times sometimes at stations but at other occasions when someone waved the train down. It was fascinating to watch the village people coming and going with their produce. The facilities were basic to say the least the buffet car consisted of an old Chinese gent who made a very nice cup of tea but sadly not much else. We could write a book about the loos of Malaysia but the loos in the train would require a chapter of their own. However the staff were very friendly and apologetic about the state of the train saying they did not like it any better than we did. It was incredibly hot not helped by the fact that the fans were not working and also the windows did not all open. We were able to get off the train at various stations - at one point we had to wait 90 minutes so we has a very nice lunch and used the stations loos ( much better).
We finally got to Gemas at 7pm. We then discovered that in order to continue our journey South we would have to wait another 7 hours for our next train and even this was complicated by our obvious need to take our bike with us. It was a very long time waiting in a station with very little facilities and nowhere to have a kip so we wandered about , sat and generally got fed up with the waiting and we really felt like two very old back packers in need of rest and a wash!!!!
2 am finally arrived and we got on a very swish train where we dozed for a further 5 hours. We managed to find a really nice hotel right next to the station where we crashed out for hours on end to recover. Tomorrow we intend to continue our journey on the bike to Kota Tinggi about 40 miles away. We are now making our way back to the ferry where we started our journey from Singapore.

Market to beat all markets

Opposite our hotel is the most amazing covered market on the ground floor is an enormous fish market with such an incredible range of fish, shell fish and all sorts of mysterious others! On the same floor is the vegetable market but in another part of the building. In the next part of the building was the meat and poultry section. On the next floor was the fruit and spices, dried fish and all manners of others. It really was an experience. We were given lycees and an immature corn on the cob to eat.
We have just cycled over to the railway station- about 5 miles each way to check on our train in the morning to make sure they would take the tandem. Time will tell. We know we can get as far as Gemas which is about two thirds of the way back to Singapore and we will probably cycle from there.
Ironically as we cycled out of Kota Bharu we came across an enormous building site for a Tesco Supermarket- would you believe it they get everywhere!!!!!
We have a confession to make but you will have to wait until our next page to find out what it is!!!!!!!

Kota Bharu

After more than 500 miles we have reached our most northerly destination in Malaysia. Kota Bharu is the main town of Kelantan which is the most conservative Muslim state in Malaysia. Linda has felt very self conscious walking around the city in shorts as virtually all other women are clothed from head to foot and some wearing the burquar. We came back to the hotel and Linda found a dress to wear which made her look less conspicuous. We have booked into a nice hotel for two days to allow us to make our minds up how we are going to return to Singapore. We have already decided to take the so called Jungle train which goes through the Cameron highlands and jungles of interior Malaysia.
We are off to the famous night market here as we are now addicted to eating our food from hawkers stalls in the street as they are such good value and very clean as well as very tasty.
lastly on the journey here today we meet or were stopped by several local people male and female asking where we were from and where we were going all very cheery and smiling with surprise that we had come so far on a bike which they had never seen before.
When we eat together the man is always served first!

April29th-May2nd

We spent another night at our very nice hotel in Paka. After our breakfast we decided to raise Linda's handle bars; a bolt sheared and the handle bars could not be made secure. We tried to fix them up with tape but Jeff was not happy about it and he said" How would I explain to the children that your mum fell off the bike onto the road as the handlebars were loose". Late afternoon we went to two motorbike shops - the first said he could not do it but the second spent half an hour drilling out the sheared bolt and very carefully replaced it with a new one. When we came to pay he refused any payment. This sort of kindness is typical of what we are finding in Malaysia. Yesterday having got lost once we thought we were on the right road. Firstly a chap approached us on his motorbike but he could not make himself understood so we carried on cycling. Then a second chap on his motorbike came up to us and told us we had taken the wrong road and this was a dead end. He then had us follow him and he put us on the right road.
On the morning of the 30th we left at dawn. We were worried that our front light was a bit dim. However we were then overtaken by a motorbike without any lights at all.
Mopeds are the most popular form of transport- so far we have seen two adults and two children on a mpoed, one man and a gibbon, one man carrying a spade and pick axe and a woman driving with one hand and holding her baby in the other. Malaysian men ride with their jackets on back to front.
Having had an early start we got to our intended destination too early so we decided to continue and got as far as Marang where we stayed the night having done 52 miles. The village was dominated by a very large Mosque and when the Iman recited his prayers the whole village had to take note as it was so loud.
One thing that never changes wherever you go is a G and T as when we were in the hotel we saw a couple who had a nanny looking after their young daughter in the restaurant and the nanny handed a flask to the man and he proceeded to pour himself what appeared to be a gin and tonic. This behaviour was noticeable as it is difficult enough getting a beer let alone anything stronger.
Our plan on May 1st was to get up late - 6am and have breakfast and then go to Terrangganu to make some phone calls. All went well until we got to our destination only to find that it was a public holiday - Labour Day and nothing was open.
As we continued along the agriculture is beginning to change and for example we are now seeing paddy fields and more cattle. Finally we got to the "hotel" that had been recommended. The first chalet he offered us - cost 4 pounds was beyond the pale. He then offered us a chalet for 7 pounds which we had to accept as there was nowhere else to stay and we were too nackered to cycle any further. Lets just say it was grim although the setting was very beautiful next to the beach. We survived the night and have arrived at Kuala Besut which is just about 40 miles south of Kotu Bharu our final destination north.
Linda seems to have a problem with eggs as when we stopped for breakfast this morning she had a bread roll and picked up two eggs from the counter. When she sat down one of the women customers said to her that the eggs were salty. Linda replied thats ok I like salt on my eggs. When she started to crack the eggs the waitress came along and just removed the eggs from her plate and then brought two other eggs and gave them to her smiling.

April 27th-28th

Cherating is the first place we have stayed at where there are a lot of backpackers and somehow it gives a totally different atmosphere to the place. Most backpackers ignored us anyway as anyone over 40years old is not visible.
We watched a local farmer use a gibbon to climb up his coconut trees to collect his coconuts. As a spectacle it was interesting although we did not really approve of using an animal in this way.
During our time at Cherating we experienced three tropical rain storms which have to be experienced to be believed. However the locals took it all in their stride as it was over as quickly as it started. Our start was delayed this morning by the third downpour but we finally got on the road at 6.30am.
We quickly cycled into Terregganu state, and thus a new Sultanate. Malaysia has the worlds only revolving monarchy. The nine state sultans each take it in turn to be the king for five years.
Today we actually saw two western women cyclists the first foreigners on bikes we have seen.
We are now in Paka having completed 40 plus miles and find we are getting fitter and therefore able to cover these distances more easily than last week. We are staying at a very nice beach resort hotel and have a chalet next to the beach and Jeff has already had a swim but not in his trunks as he left them at the last place we stayed. Actually he accused me of deliberately not packing them as they were a " BLOODY DISGRACE " with too much hanging out if you know what I mean. However he has managed to swim but in his shorts , much more respectable and the women now look at him rather than look away when he was in his skimpy trunks!!!!
Jeff has asked me to tell you all about my breakfast as he feels I must share this with you all (???) As usual we stopped at a hawkers stall of which there are many at the side of the road. I wanted an omelette so I pointed to an egg and asked for it to be cooked. A moment later I was handed a metal cup with very hot water and an egg in it along with a cup and saucer and spoon. Now readers what would you have done with this scenario? Wrong - you like me assumed the egg was already hard boiled and was merely in the hot water to keep warm. After a decent interval I assumed the egg would have been warm enough so I cracked it open. Or rather I started to until I realized it was not cooked. The lady of the stall rushed over and took the egg from my hand and emptied the contents into the cup giving me the teaspoon to eat it with! There were smiles and nods all around the stall as if to say the poor sap did not know how to eat an egg.
We are off to walk along the beach and await our next unexpected adventure in this wonderful place.

April25th and 26th

Stayed the night at the Chief's Rest House 1929 which was very colonial in style - we had a very large room all for 10 pounds. We are now into a more conservative muslim area and for example one is expected to remove ones shoes before entering any building such as a house or office. Most of the men are now wearing the traditional Malaysian cap and virtually all women wear the very least the head scarf. The people are very friendly and we are tooted at throughout the day when we are on the bike. people call out Good Morning what ever time of day it is. Linda regularly gets the thumbs up from the women when they realize she is on the back of the tandem. all the men sit lotus fashion when they are resting or eating ( this is not a position Jeff has yet adopted but I intend to get him to have a go but bum still a bit tender as is mine).
Although we left at 5.30am we got lost and went 12 miles out of our way ending in a 56 mile journey! At dawn we found ourselves beside the sea and a river - there was a little mist and the sunrise was glorious. Then we had a little diversion when Linda got ants in her pants and was seen dancing the light fandango across the sand. We had decided once we found the right route to take a minor road by the sea. We continued along this route for about 6 miles . We stopped to look at some water buffalo and tried to take a photograph of a kingfisher. Between the road and the sea were a number of Kampongs which are small settlements. between each of the houses were coconut trees. It was very quite and very beautiful. However as we discovered there was little traffic on the road as it came to a dead end with an army camp on it so we had to divert yet again back onto the main road.
eventually we got to Kuantan which is a city beside a large river. We found a very nice hotel in the centre of the town adjacent to a mosque called Masjid Negeri which is the largest mosque on the East coast of Malaysia. It was magnificent - we heard the Iman preaching throughout the evening via a loud speaker system and he was at it again this morning at 5 am.
We are now in Cherating and have a lovely beach hut right by the beach and we are off to have a swim in a minute.

April 22nd-24th

We continue to make our way north wards. Today it is pleasantly hot where as yesterday it was stiflingly hot and we noticed the locals having to keep out of the sun.
We are trying to cycle first thing in the morning to miss the heat of the day. This was after our experiences on the first couple of days when we both suffered after we both had a 'bonk'. On the first day it was Linda who nearly keeled over and on the second day it was Jeff. After he had his third rest and got up feeling dizzy he said to me " remember our marriage vows - for better or worse" to which I replied "remember yours- to take care of me", and for those amongst you who have dirty minds - 'BONK' is a technical term used in cycling when the cyclist is so exhausted that he cannot go on.
Now back to our journey- although we thought we would only get as far as Endau we did in fact manage nearly 40 miles and got to Romplin were we stayed at a holiday resort where our chalet was adjacent to the beach. Jeff had his first swim in the South China sea and was amazed as to how warm it was. Linda felt uncomfortable about going into the sea as we are now in a more conservative Muslim area where the women, if they swim at all do so fully clothed including wearing a head scarf.
Yesterday we did another 30 miles and got to a very small fishing village called Nenasi where our room was on stilts over the river and next to the fish market very much a minus one star. Today we have got as far as Pekan which is a much larger town and where we have already visited a number of sites more of this later.

April 21st

After a great night in our luxurious hotel and a substantial breakfast we walked to the sea front in Mersing. It has a beautiful beach with views to the Malaysian islands. Mersing is a fishing port with fishing boats lining the banks of the river going into the sea.
Malaysian food is often served in food halls or hawkers stalls in the street. People seem to be eating all the time and with resturants everywhere what did Linda do ---- look for shoes! we had to take the bike into a bike shop as we thought there was a problem with jeff's pedals but they were more interested in the bike than sorting out the problem but we did manage to prise them away from oh! ah! the bike, and fix it.
We went to the Hindu temple this afternoon where we had to take off our shoes before entering and view the very ornate statues, it was a very lovely building.
note - all indigenous Malaysian cats have a kink in their tails!
Tomorrow we are off at 6am to Endau which is only 20 plus miles a way - a piece of cake!!!!! (Linda) comment. x

April19th-20th

The journey to Malaysia took 30 mins and we were immediately into a very rural area such a contrast from cosmopolitan Singapore. The road from immigration passed through tropical rain forest and we were entertained several times by groups of monkeys playing by the side of the road. We also saw two giant lizards which scuttled across the road in front of us. Gradually the rain forest gave way to mile upon mile of oil palm fields. Hurry to see Malaysia before all the forest is destroyed.
It was very hot and humid and we made frequent stops at road side stalls where people were very friendly and found the tandem very amusing. Finally we reached Kota Tinggi which was 45 miles from the start of the day.
We found the hotel suggested by the Guide Book which was very much a one star but did have a shower!
Up by 6am today and were on the road by 7am. We stopped for our breakfast after an hour Jeff had noodles with fish sauce and I had a pancake with an omelette very nice too!
After a long old day and several stops we arrived knackered at Mersing where we booked into the best hotel in the town - we thought we deserved it after last night.

Monday 16th and Tuesday 17th

Having spent ages weighing bike bag and our other bags we could not get the weight below 46kgs - limit 40kgs!.
Got to Larnaca airport to fly Emerites. they laid a red carpet for 1st class, blue for business; we were economy-stone floor! We did not mind as were first in the queue. We put our bike bag on the scales before any Emerites staff came. We had to lift the arm off the scales as the bike bag was too big to go under it. It weighed 30kgs. When the Emerites girl arrived we put the bike bag back on the scales but she had put the arm back over the scales so we could only get the bike bag half on. It only registered 15kgs ! - no excess charge.
Finally got to Singapore only to be told our bike bag had not got on the flight- eventually arrived 8 hours later.
First meal out - Jeff enjoyed a spicy crab - he is leaving the fish head soup until later!!
Today we got the bike together (no problems) Jeff has it down to a fine art.
We cycled to Changi prison - the scene of horrendous conditions for prisoners of war. It was a very moving experience. There was a wonderful video of a Malaysian woman who had been tortured by the Japanese for helping British prisoners. She said " she forgave the soldiers, but could never forget what happened to her, but the real evil was war when people behaved so badly". We are taking the ferry in the morning to Malaysia to start our cycling holiday. Not sure when we can next up date you but we will when we can.

Bike made for two

Hello to all our family and friends we are about to start on our journey on April 16th, we will keep in touch.

Jeff & Linda