Feb 2nd

Left at 8am and immediately cycled up a long hill out of Papatowai and this was basically the pattern for the next 4 hours - up and down hills in stunning countryside with dense forest for most of the way. Very quiet and isolated and certainly the most rural region we have cycled through.Stopped for coffee at the Squeaky Frog Cafe at Macleans Falls and then on past Niagara Falls [it's a joke as they are about 10ft high!], along Waikawa Harbour to Porpoise Bay. The views from our motel room are outstanding, the beach is 25 yards away and really the most beautiful views across the bay and on to Stewart Island which is about 20 miles away.
Hector Dolphins come here to rear their young and one is able to swim and stand right next to them. They were clearly visible and are the smallest dolphins being about 3- 4 ft long. They are very rare and are heavily protected by the NZ authorities. There were a number of people swimming with the dolphins but most of them were wearing wet suits as the sea, even in the middle of summer, is perishing cold as the waters come straight from the Antarctic which is the nearest landmass south of where we are. There is an air of being at the world's end shamelessly exploited by the locals eg an art exhibition about to start called The Edge of the World Art Exhibition.
At the adjoining Curio Bay we explored a petrifed forest 170 million years old which is a left-over from the Jurassic Period and reckoned to be one of the world's oldest and the best! Intriguing to see the petrified tree stumps and the wood grain clearly showing.
As no restaurant here[ and for second day running no alcohol for sale!] we had spaghetti and tomato sauce. Early evening we returned to the petrified forest area and watched with a few other spectators for an hour or so yellow-eyed penguins[hoihoi]. They are extremely rare and shy and carefully protected.  We looked at them thinking 'strange creatures';they appeared to be standing looking at us and thinking the same thing! Wonderful to see them in their natural environment.
We had hoped to see Sea Lions which appear here regularly but sadly not today.